Pablo’s Finca and the Rock

There is coming a big sky of black smoke, when the driver in the old Nissan pickup is giving gas. I am sitting with 8 others in one of two Nissan pickups. The road are getting thinner the longer we are driving.

The first sign that we are entering the biggest country house of Pablo Escobar, the Finca summer resident, is the checkpoint-house at the gate.

The size of the Finca property is 8 hectare and the view over the fake lake close to Guatape is relaxing. We are passing though a small tunnel before the pickups are stopping. We have arrived to his party house.

Today is the property owned by one of the guards of the house. This man has been fighting for years with the government to keep the property.

The first thing I see when I am standing out of the pickup is a white old limousine standing at a tree with the view over the lake. When I am getting closer can I see a bullet hole through the front window. This limousine was the one El Patron was driving in, when the first attack trying to kill him was made in 1986.

Holes in the wall

There is a silence, except of the load music from the party house with the view over the lake. It makes me start thinking on how it must have been for El Patrón and his friends to stay at this property. The construction of the lake was started in the 1930s and ended in the 1980s. The idea was to overload an existing city for the purpose of making a reservoir for hydropower. Today does the hydropower produce 30% of all energy in Colombia. But not only is it a place to make energy it is also a place to relax. Especially does many rich people have a residential house at this lake. The property of Escobar was first opened for public for two years ago. Today is it even possible to do paintball in the ruins that is left of the house.

As explained in one of the earlier blog-update did the Medellin Cartel with El Patrón as the leader brought in more than 60 million Dollars a day. Therefor is the property today full of trees and plants from around the world. One of this is the cork tree from Australia.

As La Catedral is his house today a ruin, since some of his enemies’ placed two bombes in the house, which destroyed must of it. Even though it today is a ruin it is easy to have the image of have impressive the whole Property was, especially when I am standing with the view over the lake from the Privet room of El Patrón. It is a 180% panorama view, where he at that time had a big window. There are a lot of holes in the house since the Cartel hided money in the walls and in the ground, since they could put the huge amount of money in an bank account.

There is a pool in front of the house. A bit behind the house is there a guesthouse where bodyguards and friends were sleeping. El Patrón even build a football fill. By walking around this property can I not stop hearing the lyrics of “Is This The World We Created?” by Queen in my head:

“Is this the world we created
What did we do it for
Is this the world we invaded
Against the law”

Even though their context for this song is different does it fit to El Patron, since he created a new world, not only for himself but for everybody.

Since it is a “fake half island” did it take him 6 years to build the property, Finca. 3 years for moving the sand and 3 years to build the houses. Today does the property has a value of 6 million dollars, so I wonder the value of it when El Patrón was around… – He even had his own plane, which could land on the lake to make his travel time as short as possible.

The Rock 

The music is loud to be louder than the engine. The water is hitting my face when we are driving the small waves. Alejandra, our guide for today, is at the moment also our DJ. We are taking a tour on the lake from where a cross from the old church is sticking up of the water. Usually is it time to go swimming in the lake, but since Colombia at the movement is facing one of the worst droughts is this prohibited. Do to this has 5 people drowned doing the last month since the sand have been withdrawn them down as quicksand. By looking at the water level is it easy to see that it is meters below usually level.

By looking at the houses facing the lake is it easy to get the filling of being at an expensive area but after taking some corners on our way away from the Finca, the summer residence of El Patron, do we see a big Rock in the horizon.

It is the Penol Stone, also known as “La Piedra”, which is located around 86 km northeast of Medellin. The Rock, which is a wide Antioquian Rock, became declared a “National Monument” in the 40s and only 5 minutes in car from the town of Guatapé, which is famous for its small colorful houses.

740 steps

I am slowly but save climbing the 740 steps to get to the top of the rock at a height of 2,135 meters above sea level, from where there is a small viewpoint over the landscape of the lake. Everybody who are coming to the top, is having a loud breath, but the view is good, and for a short time does the view reminds me of the Swedish and Norwegian skerries only with the big different that here is there no rocks in the water but its all made by sand.

After climbing the stairs, are we ready to get back to Medellin. We are stopping at a viewpoint with the view over Medellin, from were the sunset and the light over Medellin can be seen. A lot of Colombians have been driving up here to enjoy the beautiful view, so we are not standing alone and for a moment do I think of all the things I have experienced here in Colombia. Colombia, which is a country that has constantly surprised me with its diversity and huge range of experience. But tonight is the night, where I need to leave the country for now and go back to Mexico, for a short stop before I will be going back to Denmark.

The filling of being free

The road must be more than 12% steep do I think to myself while I am sitting on the back of the Motorcycle of Estefany. The sun is coming from the blue skies with only a few clouds above us. We are heading north.

Estefany is working at the Hostal, GeoHostal, where I am staying en Medellin, but she is off today and wanted to go for a fly as I do.  

The view over Medellin is getting better and better the feather up the mountains we are coming. It is Tuesday and we are are going to do Paragliding. A think I have been waiting on for month. Because not only are Medellin surrounded by mountains, it also have the possibility of doing cheap Paragliding. 125.000 (34 euro) pesos for 20 minutes. 

  

The Take-off

After small 40 minutes drive, are we arriving to a parking place, from here do we need to walk for 8 minutes before we are at the top of one of the mountains, where there is a big spot with green grass. The view over the city is impressive both under and over us, can I can see the parachutes of other Paragliding.   

“Just start to walk slowly” does my pilot say to me. I am attacked to him and we are slowly starting to walk closer to the edge. Just before the edge can I fill the Buoyancy from the parachutes. 

We are flying! I can only hear the sound of the wind while we are flying high and higher with a perfect view over Medellin. 

A bird is flying around under us and further down can I see Estafany who is waiting on her turn. 

 

For a moment do I fill free, I don’t have to be worry about anything, the only thing I need to do is to be relaxed and enjoy the silence and the view.  

After 20 minutes do I again have the save ground under my feet. Estarfany is getting ready and are taking take-off. It is amazing to see how the use of Buoyancy and parachutes can make humans fly. 

 On the Bike  

As in Bogota are the streets here in Medellin full of Motorbikes. It is faster and more economic to drive on this. I am enjoying the ride back to Medellin. We are crossing the streets through the cars, so we we are not standing still in the traffic. We are heading off to have lunch before we are ending the day at the Museo de Arte Moderno de Medellín, where we are going to see the exhibition: “Todo está muy Caro” by the contemporary artist Antonio Caro.

 

 

La Catedral – “Quien no conoce su historia esta condoned a repetirla”

 

I am holding as fast as I can to the selling of the Bus, when we are flying around the corners at the small road. I am on my way to “La Catedral”, also known as the prison of Pablo Escobar. The world famous drug dealer has many different nicknames, as El Patrón, who at the moment is having his own Series at Netflix.

El Patrón started his criminal carrier as 13 year old, where he stole parts of cars and sold it. Later became he active in the drug industry. He made the beginning of the imports of Cocaine to the US. In the middle of the 80s where the Medellin Cartel, who he was the boss of, estimated to smuggle 70 to 80 tons of cocaine from Colombia to US, especially to Miami every month. In 1989 did Forbis range El Patrón as one of the worlds 227 billionaires in the world with a net worth close to 3 billion Dollars. The Medellin Cartel was in this period controlling 80% of the global cocaine market and the cartel brought in more than 60 million Dollars a day. With this huge amount of money coming in everyday couldn’t he use it all so he started to dick it in the ground in the mountains around Medellin, since he couldn’t use them as fast as he earned them. For only a few month ago did a farmer found a huge load of money in the ground which was some of El Patron’s money. 

The story of El Patrón is complex as the Colombian history. When he became elected as an alternate member of the Chamber of Representatives of Colombia as part of the Colombian Liberal Party in 1982 did he also became a well-known face the public and some people started to ask where all his money came from. 

He wanted to help the poor, and change things. Some people even say that he had so many money that he wanted to pay the economic death of Colombia. But this might just be a story in the air, since everybody have their own story to tell about El Patron. 

Not everybody was interesting in letting El Patrón into politic. Therefor when Luis Carlos Galán became president in August 1983, did the new Minister of Justice Rodrigo Lara Bonilla denounce the drug cartels, especially in Medellin. When El Patrón was elected to the Congress, did Lara denounced him by citing his connection to drug cartels. It was Lara who exposed El Patón and the cartel for influencing politics and sports through corruption. The fight against the Narco Cartels had started and El Patrón was expelled from the Congress and his U.S. visa vas cancelled. 

Eight months after Lara did take the Ministry of Justice was he gunned down in his car on the night of the 30^th of April 1984, on 127^th Street in Bogota, which today is named “Avenida Rodrigo Lara Bonilla” in his honor. El Patrón organized the murder of Lara. The consequence of the murder was the war against organized Crime; especially the Narco Cartels was started. The war that has cost thousands of life. 

The 2sd of December 1993 just one day after his 41-year-old birthday was Pablo Escobar tracked and shot down on a rooftop in Medellin. – Still more than 20 years after his dead is there still different conspiracy theories about how he dead, since some say he was not killed, but instead he made suicide by shouting himself through is ear… 

 

La Catedral

I am walking alone for around 20 min. in the mountain until I hit the road. There is a lot of people coming in me direction. It is Sunday, and there has just been a running-race. A 9-kilometer running uphill with the final-line at La Catedral.

The name La Catedral, has a double meaning, because not only is it the synonym for the prison of El Patrón, Pablo Emilio Escobar Gaviria, as well is there also a church made of wood. El Patrón made La Catedral by him self, by making an agreement with the Colombian government since he saw it better to stay in Colombia than go to a prison in US, As heexpressed this way: “Prefiero una tumba en Colombia, que una Cárcel en Estates Unidos” (I prefer a tomb in Colombia than a jail en US).   

His prison was not a normal one, there where pool tables, big TV’s and even a helicopter place here in the mountains with the view over Medellin.  

When I arrive to the sight am I first surprised since I am seeing a lot of old people. There is now a nursing home for older people with the view over Medellin just in front of La Catedral. There are a lot of people in sports close since they have been a part of the run this Sunday morning. A man is starting to talk with me, he want to hear where I am from, and before I see it do he want to have a picture with me and a older man, who lives in the nurse home. 

 

After the photo session, do I continue down the stairs to enter the site of La Catedral. Nearly 25 years after El Patrón lived here is it more or less just a ruin. It is only possible to enter the church, which he made and is formed like a cross from above. Over the building from where he had his head quarter is there a big picture of him with the words: “Quien no conoce su historia esta condoned a repetirla” (Those who do not know their history will repeat it). 

It is easy to see how Meddellin and Colombia is trying not only tell the world that they have a lot more to offer than drugs, they are also trying to say it to themself. 

With the view over the red tall houses, which are gracing Medellin at the Helicopter-place is it difficult to understand that a man, El Patrón, who had a so huge influence on how Colombia has become today had his headquarter here from June 1991 until July 1992.

 

 

Fact – how to get to La Catedral from Medellin

First take the metro to the metro station Envígado on line A. From Envígado take a bus (usually green bus) to Vereda El Arenales (The sign at the bus just said Arenales). When you are getting into the bus say that you want to go to La Catedral. The price is 2.500 pesos and you will be dropped of around 10 minutes walk from La Catedral.

If you want to go for longer, around 45 minutes. do you ask the bus driver to get of at Vereda El Arenales, price 2.000 pesos. Ask the bus driver or locals how to get from there to La Catedral. (You will be walking in a forest where you just keep right until you see a road a bit ahead of you after small 25 minuntes of walking. Continue at the road uphill around 2 km and you will be at La Catedral).

if you go doing the weekend will there be more people and be sure to be there before 1 pm since the sight where La Catedral is located is closing at this time.

From Narco-Cartel to a Modern City

I see it right away, I am in a richer part, people are dressed well, and everybody are sitting with there Mac BookPro at the Café Pergamino in Poblado, Medellin where I this Thursday are taking a seat to be productive after tree days without internet.

The wipe in the Café Pergamino, is good, the music is loud but chill and for a movement do I fill that I could be wherever I wanted to be in the world, because the wibe I am getting here is universal. – it has no nationality! – But when I am looking around can I hear on the Spanish accent that I am in Colombia, and by taking a short look at the Colombian girls who are passing by me can I for sure say, that the Colombian girls are some of the mush beautiful ones! – if this is a natural phenomena or the reality of the fact that Medellin is one of the cities in the world who are having most plastic surgeries in the world, will I be standing as a open question.

Doing the 90s where Medellin one of the most dangerous cities in the world. The war against the cartel where on its highest. People were killed everyday and a law trying to minimize drive-by-shooting was made, so it where not aloud to be driving two men on a motorbike.

Even today is the politician of Colombia trying to make a peace agreement with the guerrilla- and paramilitary groups. This days are they especially working hard on getting a peace agreement with the biggest guerilla group FARC.

I have now been in Colombia for more than 3 weeks and it is easy to see who diverse the country is. Especially here in Medellin is it easy to see how the life today is more peaceful than for 20-25 years ago.

At the square San Antonio in the center stands what is left of the Fernando Botero statue, which was blew up in the evening of the 10th of June 1995, a night where the square was full of people enjoying the time. 29 people were killed, even today do nobody knows who left a bag with the bomb. Today is the statue a simple of the people who lost their life this evening but also as a hope of a better future. A hope I fill here in Medellin while the Colombian flag is flapping behind the statue this afternoon nearly 20 years after the attack.

 

Symbol for hope and change

Denmark was late to get there first Metro the 19th of October 2002 and at the movement are they constructing a new line. The metro here in Medellin is totally different than any other metro I have tried around the world. It is not the fact that the metro is taking you from A to B as any other metro systems in the world, it is more the meaning of it. The Metro system is showing the hope of changing Medellin into a better place. The Metro was opened the 30th of November 1995, at a time where Medellin was one of the most dangerous cities in the world. The metro is the symbol of hope in Medellin.

When I am entering the metro do I fill a special wibe, it fills like everybody respects it in another way than what I have tried before in other cities. The Metro is the only one in the whole Colombia and it might be the cleanest one I have ever been in. There is no trash, no Grafity, no footprint at the walls and people are walking slowly in and out of the metro. There is nobody trying to sell anything in or at the metro, it fills like a space for peace.

The metro system is well build with metro-cables which is also connecting some of the more poorer areas, so everybody who lives in Medellin has the possibility to use the cheap metro, 2.200 pesos, 0,58 euro per trip. As a tourist is the system essay and efficient to use and with the metro-cables is it possible to get a good view over the city.

 

The Hammock in the Mountains

 

I am on the back of a Motorbike with my big back at the Motorcycle steering when we are driven up the mountain on a small gravel road. The road is narrow when we are driving up the mountain from Minca. The drive is only taking 35 minutes and cost 20.000 COP (5,6 Euro) which I first found a bit expensive compared to the Jeep trip from Santa Marta to Minca, which was 45 minutes with a cost of 7.000 COP (2 Euro), but when we are on the road with the view of the Caribbean Sea and Santa Marta in the background do I understand the price difference. – The road up here is in very bad conditions.  

I am on my way to the hostal, Casa Elemento, 1.200 meters above sea level. Today (monday, 1st of February) is it exactly two weeks since I arrived to Colombia and it is a country that keeps surprising me. 

After spending a few days in Cartagena I am now arriving to Casa Elemento. A place which was one of the reasons for me to go to Colombia. The first time I heard about it were when my friend Alexandra, who is half Colombian and half Norwegian but is living in Copenhagen, who gave me tips about Colombia back in Denmark for months ago. Since i saw a picture of her in a big hammock laying with the scenery of the maintains in the background did I knew that this was a place I needed to go! 

When I am jumping of the Motorbike do I know that I have just arrived to the perfect place to relax and enjoy the scenery for a few days and getting a less humid climate than in Cabo San Juan, Santa Marta and Cartagena where I have been the last days and to have the possibility to lay in a hammock with the view over the maintains, Santa Marta and the Caribbean Sea is just fantastic. 

By sleeping in hammocks in the nature makes me relax, when the sounds from birds monkeys and other animals can be heard from the silence only interned by the other people staying at the Hostel and a soft sound of the music from the bar. Since the Casa Elemento is very isolated is all the meals and drinks going to be here, or at lease it is the easiest way. By dinner at 7.30 when everybody at Casa Elemento are sitting and eating together does it for a short time fill like a small big family here in the mountains 1.200 above sea level. 

 

 

The oldest city in Colombia

Cartagena is famous for its small streets and Spanish architecture since this city was the first city build in Colombia in 1533. It is a part of UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is a famous place for tourist to go. Doing the few days I am spending in Cartagena do I fill to be a bit smashed, up at the walls, because of the huge amount of tourist, which not only are foreigners but also Colombians. It is easy to see that Cartagena is on the top-list for tourist to visit here in Colombia. 

For me does Cartagena has two faces. Doing the day does is there a colorful Spanish-Colombian traditional “wibe”, but when it turns dark and the night slowly starts, is it changing into a colorful music dance city. 

 

The temperature is around 28 degrees, and the salsa music is playing loud from the bar close to the Clock Tower. As in every other Latin American country does the Colombian girls learn how to dance and use their hips like a part of learning to walk. Tonight is the mentoring  dance starting again, and I can say it is impressive to watch. I am getting a beer with Lucero, who is from Peru. I meet her at my hostel in Cali who consequentially was going with the same plane as me to Cartagena – the world is small! 

After the first sip of my beer is a Swedish man, Thorbjörn, who is sitting at the table next to us asking me where I am from. After a small-talk is he inviting Lucero and I over to join him and his Girlfriends at their table. They have been together for 5 years. This is the 11 time Thorbjörn is in Colombia. A country he really loves, and I understandwhy. We are hearing their stories and getting good advise about where to go. They are a very friendly couple. When the bar is closing at 1 am. is Thorbjörn insisting that we need to visit a place that he really loves. 

The Oasis behind the door

We are turning right on the first street from the bar and after walking a few minutes is Thorbjörn knocking on a big door made of wood. The door is opening. By this are we entering a Hotel Boutique, which is a small hotel. By entering the door to Alfiz Hotel Boutique does it fill like entering into a new universe. It is a hiding oasis. We are slowly and with silence looking around since everybody at the Hotel Boutique are sleeping. The hotel is in two floors with a small restaurant in the middle and a pool at the terrace. Thorbjörn is explaining the history about the hotel with enthusiasm. It is his favorite place to stay in Cartagena. The style has been kept in the style as for hundreds yeas ago. (It is possible to get a virtual 360 degree view of the Hotel Boutique here, http://www.alfizhotel.com)

It is interesting to experience how a normal door from the outside can hide one of many oasis. At the same time is it interesting to explore how different everyday is since Lucero and I did see the sunset the evening before from the castle Mall Plaza El Castillo with a view over Cartagena and the Caribbean Sea. 

 

The waves in the dark  

It is dark I am laying in a hammock with the view over the dark Caribbean Sea at the beach, Cabo San Juan del Guia in the Nacional Park “Parque Nacional Tayrona”. 

After walking nearly two hours from the entrance did I arrive to this small oasis at the Sea. The sand is white and the sea is blue/green as the Caribbean Sea is formers for being. After standing in a line for 30-40 minutes did I get the best hammock in my opinion on the top of a ruck around 40 meters above sea-level. 

The night is Dark and the wind is cold, but the silence with only the sound of the waves is all worth it. 

I am waking early the next morning a bit cold, but when I am looking over the sea with the sun slowly rising behind a mountain to my right side does it fill like time is standing still! – Colombia keeps surprising me! 

Colombia – First Impression

The motorbikes are flying around me when I am walking at the street in Bogota. I have just arrived from Mexico City and in comparison to Mexico City is Bogota small. Even though, when I was flying in, was the city surrounded by mountains and looking big, so it might just be the reality of the miss calculation by comparison Bogota with a population of the metropolis of nearly 10 million with one of the worlds biggest Cities.

I cannot see the blue sky for the pollution, which is surrounding Bogota. The pollution even fill stronger here than in Mexico City. My own conclusion of this is because of the mountains that are surrounding Bogota, located in 2,640 meters above see level.

Bogota is not only the capital of Colombia, but it is also where the family of the Cocaine King Pablo Escobar, who had different nicknames as Don Pablo or El Patrón, was send for house arrest in one of the hotels in the center. – The hotel from where the police tracked Pablo Escobar though a phone call and made it possible for them to catch and kill him the 2^nd of December 1993 at a roof top in Medellín. El Patrón became 44 years old.

The Bike-ride 

I am jumping on my bike. I have rented it for the next couple of hours. Not only is Bogota full of Motorbikes, there is also bike-lanes. Doing my first day could I see a lot of people driving on their bikes, so today have I decide to get a City Bike Tour. A tour that turned out to be very interesting since we saw different part of the city and heard good stories and saw some of the many Graffiti paintings, which are many places around the city. Many walls are filled with graffiti with political or social statements. One of them is the graffiti painting that I am starting this post with, with a picture of the journalist and news presenter Jaime Garzón. Who became know for saying “… País de Mierda…” on live TV when he thought he was off. At the painting is there not only a painting of his face, his name but also the words “…hasta aquí las sonrisas, país de mierda…” (It is over Smiling, shitty country) said by a reporter on the night when Garzón where found dead the 13th of august 1999.

The part of the City, which I like the most is the old part, La Candelaria, where the streets are small and narrow.

From the bus from the airport could I see that many other parts of the city are tall and modern. At the movement are they constructing a new Sky Scraper. The BD Bacatá, which is the first crowdfunded Sky Scraper in the world and the first skyscraper to be build in Colombia in 35 years. The latest is the Torre Colpatria, which was completed in 1979 with 50 floors and a height of 196 meter. Torre Colpatria is until BD Bacatá is finishing the tallest building in Colombia and the 5th tallest in South America.

BD Bacatá is estimated to be finishing later this year where the South tower will have 67 floors and be 240 meter when the North tower will have 56 floors and be 216 m. By this will it be the tallest building in Bogota and the second tallest in Latin America only surpassed by the Gran Torre Santiago with its 300 meters and 60 floors which was completed in 2014 in Santiago de Chile, Chile.

 

Mountain ride

I’m sitting here in the back of a old Mitsubishi 4×4 and jumping around at the back set since the road here in the mountains are not the same standards as the once we are use to back in Denmark. But when I’m looking out of the window doesn’t the jumping around really matter at all. I am in the mountains around San Augustin, in the southern part of Colombia.

San Agustin is famous for its Archaeological Park, which became a part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Site in 1995. Therefore am I not only going to see great nature and waterfalls, El Estrecho, Alto de los Ìdolos, Alto de las Piedras, Salto de Bordones and Salto de Mortiño, as I am also going to see this special sculptures. By looking at these sculptures is it magnificent to see how it was possible for so many years ago to make this piece of art!

On the way to the Archaeological Park does our driver stop the car for a movement. For a movement am I sitting still, not jumping around here at the backseat. By looking out of the window on my right side, can I see a big thick black smoke. It does not really look like green energy they are producing here, do I think to myself, when I am getting closer can I see that they are making sugar plates. It is a fabric. We are taking a look around. The fabric is not big, but there is what they need. There is a machine to press the cane so the juice of sugar is coming out. After this is the juice getting into three hot baths to be distilled. Finally is the sugar getting a thick consistency with a copper color before it is going to poured over in a form and be cooled down. It is very sweet when I am tasting a small piece of a plate.

 

Cali the salsa town

It is Sunday, which means a day for families in Latin America and so as well here in Colombia. I am on my way to Cerro de Las Tres Cruces that is located in 1.400 meters and I can easily say that I am not the only one.

Eventhough the track is hard to find because of no signs is it easy to fine the way to the top after the starting point, since I only need to follow all the people in front of me.

The sweat is running down their faces the temperature is around 28 degrees Celsius and it is humid but this still does not stop people for lifting weights just in front of Las Tres Cruces. People are even standing in lines for their turn to make pull-ups, push-ups and lifting waits. Not everybody has climbed the mountain to enjoy the view over Cali, even though it is a bit cloudy so the whole city is difficult to be seen. Many people have found their way up here to do exercises

The lines for the small pop-up juice and ice-creem stands are long. It is easy to see it is Sunday. The family day of the week here at Cerro de Las Tres Cruces and in Latin America.

After spending a week in Colombia is my first impression of Colombian that they are friendly but do not speak as loud as Mexicans. They are using different words to formulate the same things, so doing my first days do I need to convert my Mexican-Spanish into Colombian-Spanish. Colombia is world famous for their beautiful women, and I can immediately see the differences from what I have seen before. The women here is smaller, are having curves. As well do they now how to move their hips, which they are learning as a part of learning to walk as everybody does in Latin America. Especially is Cali famous for being a Salsa City, which truly understand why. At the same time is Colombia a diverse ethical country do to their history and Slavery. So even though you may not think about it, there is still a huge racism do to their race.