Pablo’s Finca and the Rock

There is coming a big sky of black smoke, when the driver in the old Nissan pickup is giving gas. I am sitting with 8 others in one of two Nissan pickups. The road are getting thinner the longer we are driving.

The first sign that we are entering the biggest country house of Pablo Escobar, the Finca summer resident, is the checkpoint-house at the gate.

The size of the Finca property is 8 hectare and the view over the fake lake close to Guatape is relaxing. We are passing though a small tunnel before the pickups are stopping. We have arrived to his party house.

Today is the property owned by one of the guards of the house. This man has been fighting for years with the government to keep the property.

The first thing I see when I am standing out of the pickup is a white old limousine standing at a tree with the view over the lake. When I am getting closer can I see a bullet hole through the front window. This limousine was the one El Patron was driving in, when the first attack trying to kill him was made in 1986.

Holes in the wall

There is a silence, except of the load music from the party house with the view over the lake. It makes me start thinking on how it must have been for El Patrón and his friends to stay at this property. The construction of the lake was started in the 1930s and ended in the 1980s. The idea was to overload an existing city for the purpose of making a reservoir for hydropower. Today does the hydropower produce 30% of all energy in Colombia. But not only is it a place to make energy it is also a place to relax. Especially does many rich people have a residential house at this lake. The property of Escobar was first opened for public for two years ago. Today is it even possible to do paintball in the ruins that is left of the house.

As explained in one of the earlier blog-update did the Medellin Cartel with El Patrón as the leader brought in more than 60 million Dollars a day. Therefor is the property today full of trees and plants from around the world. One of this is the cork tree from Australia.

As La Catedral is his house today a ruin, since some of his enemies’ placed two bombes in the house, which destroyed must of it. Even though it today is a ruin it is easy to have the image of have impressive the whole Property was, especially when I am standing with the view over the lake from the Privet room of El Patrón. It is a 180% panorama view, where he at that time had a big window. There are a lot of holes in the house since the Cartel hided money in the walls and in the ground, since they could put the huge amount of money in an bank account.

There is a pool in front of the house. A bit behind the house is there a guesthouse where bodyguards and friends were sleeping. El Patrón even build a football fill. By walking around this property can I not stop hearing the lyrics of “Is This The World We Created?” by Queen in my head:

“Is this the world we created
What did we do it for
Is this the world we invaded
Against the law”

Even though their context for this song is different does it fit to El Patron, since he created a new world, not only for himself but for everybody.

Since it is a “fake half island” did it take him 6 years to build the property, Finca. 3 years for moving the sand and 3 years to build the houses. Today does the property has a value of 6 million dollars, so I wonder the value of it when El Patrón was around… – He even had his own plane, which could land on the lake to make his travel time as short as possible.

The Rock 

The music is loud to be louder than the engine. The water is hitting my face when we are driving the small waves. Alejandra, our guide for today, is at the moment also our DJ. We are taking a tour on the lake from where a cross from the old church is sticking up of the water. Usually is it time to go swimming in the lake, but since Colombia at the movement is facing one of the worst droughts is this prohibited. Do to this has 5 people drowned doing the last month since the sand have been withdrawn them down as quicksand. By looking at the water level is it easy to see that it is meters below usually level.

By looking at the houses facing the lake is it easy to get the filling of being at an expensive area but after taking some corners on our way away from the Finca, the summer residence of El Patron, do we see a big Rock in the horizon.

It is the Penol Stone, also known as “La Piedra”, which is located around 86 km northeast of Medellin. The Rock, which is a wide Antioquian Rock, became declared a “National Monument” in the 40s and only 5 minutes in car from the town of Guatapé, which is famous for its small colorful houses.

740 steps

I am slowly but save climbing the 740 steps to get to the top of the rock at a height of 2,135 meters above sea level, from where there is a small viewpoint over the landscape of the lake. Everybody who are coming to the top, is having a loud breath, but the view is good, and for a short time does the view reminds me of the Swedish and Norwegian skerries only with the big different that here is there no rocks in the water but its all made by sand.

After climbing the stairs, are we ready to get back to Medellin. We are stopping at a viewpoint with the view over Medellin, from were the sunset and the light over Medellin can be seen. A lot of Colombians have been driving up here to enjoy the beautiful view, so we are not standing alone and for a moment do I think of all the things I have experienced here in Colombia. Colombia, which is a country that has constantly surprised me with its diversity and huge range of experience. But tonight is the night, where I need to leave the country for now and go back to Mexico, for a short stop before I will be going back to Denmark.

The filling of being free

The road must be more than 12% steep do I think to myself while I am sitting on the back of the Motorcycle of Estefany. The sun is coming from the blue skies with only a few clouds above us. We are heading north.

Estefany is working at the Hostal, GeoHostal, where I am staying en Medellin, but she is off today and wanted to go for a fly as I do.  

The view over Medellin is getting better and better the feather up the mountains we are coming. It is Tuesday and we are are going to do Paragliding. A think I have been waiting on for month. Because not only are Medellin surrounded by mountains, it also have the possibility of doing cheap Paragliding. 125.000 (34 euro) pesos for 20 minutes. 

  

The Take-off

After small 40 minutes drive, are we arriving to a parking place, from here do we need to walk for 8 minutes before we are at the top of one of the mountains, where there is a big spot with green grass. The view over the city is impressive both under and over us, can I can see the parachutes of other Paragliding.   

“Just start to walk slowly” does my pilot say to me. I am attacked to him and we are slowly starting to walk closer to the edge. Just before the edge can I fill the Buoyancy from the parachutes. 

We are flying! I can only hear the sound of the wind while we are flying high and higher with a perfect view over Medellin. 

A bird is flying around under us and further down can I see Estafany who is waiting on her turn. 

 

For a moment do I fill free, I don’t have to be worry about anything, the only thing I need to do is to be relaxed and enjoy the silence and the view.  

After 20 minutes do I again have the save ground under my feet. Estarfany is getting ready and are taking take-off. It is amazing to see how the use of Buoyancy and parachutes can make humans fly. 

 On the Bike  

As in Bogota are the streets here in Medellin full of Motorbikes. It is faster and more economic to drive on this. I am enjoying the ride back to Medellin. We are crossing the streets through the cars, so we we are not standing still in the traffic. We are heading off to have lunch before we are ending the day at the Museo de Arte Moderno de Medellín, where we are going to see the exhibition: “Todo está muy Caro” by the contemporary artist Antonio Caro.

 

 

La Catedral – “Quien no conoce su historia esta condoned a repetirla”

 

I am holding as fast as I can to the selling of the Bus, when we are flying around the corners at the small road. I am on my way to “La Catedral”, also known as the prison of Pablo Escobar. The world famous drug dealer has many different nicknames, as El Patrón, who at the moment is having his own Series at Netflix.

El Patrón started his criminal carrier as 13 year old, where he stole parts of cars and sold it. Later became he active in the drug industry. He made the beginning of the imports of Cocaine to the US. In the middle of the 80s where the Medellin Cartel, who he was the boss of, estimated to smuggle 70 to 80 tons of cocaine from Colombia to US, especially to Miami every month. In 1989 did Forbis range El Patrón as one of the worlds 227 billionaires in the world with a net worth close to 3 billion Dollars. The Medellin Cartel was in this period controlling 80% of the global cocaine market and the cartel brought in more than 60 million Dollars a day. With this huge amount of money coming in everyday couldn’t he use it all so he started to dick it in the ground in the mountains around Medellin, since he couldn’t use them as fast as he earned them. For only a few month ago did a farmer found a huge load of money in the ground which was some of El Patron’s money. 

The story of El Patrón is complex as the Colombian history. When he became elected as an alternate member of the Chamber of Representatives of Colombia as part of the Colombian Liberal Party in 1982 did he also became a well-known face the public and some people started to ask where all his money came from. 

He wanted to help the poor, and change things. Some people even say that he had so many money that he wanted to pay the economic death of Colombia. But this might just be a story in the air, since everybody have their own story to tell about El Patron. 

Not everybody was interesting in letting El Patrón into politic. Therefor when Luis Carlos Galán became president in August 1983, did the new Minister of Justice Rodrigo Lara Bonilla denounce the drug cartels, especially in Medellin. When El Patrón was elected to the Congress, did Lara denounced him by citing his connection to drug cartels. It was Lara who exposed El Patón and the cartel for influencing politics and sports through corruption. The fight against the Narco Cartels had started and El Patrón was expelled from the Congress and his U.S. visa vas cancelled. 

Eight months after Lara did take the Ministry of Justice was he gunned down in his car on the night of the 30^th of April 1984, on 127^th Street in Bogota, which today is named “Avenida Rodrigo Lara Bonilla” in his honor. El Patrón organized the murder of Lara. The consequence of the murder was the war against organized Crime; especially the Narco Cartels was started. The war that has cost thousands of life. 

The 2sd of December 1993 just one day after his 41-year-old birthday was Pablo Escobar tracked and shot down on a rooftop in Medellin. – Still more than 20 years after his dead is there still different conspiracy theories about how he dead, since some say he was not killed, but instead he made suicide by shouting himself through is ear… 

 

La Catedral

I am walking alone for around 20 min. in the mountain until I hit the road. There is a lot of people coming in me direction. It is Sunday, and there has just been a running-race. A 9-kilometer running uphill with the final-line at La Catedral.

The name La Catedral, has a double meaning, because not only is it the synonym for the prison of El Patrón, Pablo Emilio Escobar Gaviria, as well is there also a church made of wood. El Patrón made La Catedral by him self, by making an agreement with the Colombian government since he saw it better to stay in Colombia than go to a prison in US, As heexpressed this way: “Prefiero una tumba en Colombia, que una Cárcel en Estates Unidos” (I prefer a tomb in Colombia than a jail en US).   

His prison was not a normal one, there where pool tables, big TV’s and even a helicopter place here in the mountains with the view over Medellin.  

When I arrive to the sight am I first surprised since I am seeing a lot of old people. There is now a nursing home for older people with the view over Medellin just in front of La Catedral. There are a lot of people in sports close since they have been a part of the run this Sunday morning. A man is starting to talk with me, he want to hear where I am from, and before I see it do he want to have a picture with me and a older man, who lives in the nurse home. 

 

After the photo session, do I continue down the stairs to enter the site of La Catedral. Nearly 25 years after El Patrón lived here is it more or less just a ruin. It is only possible to enter the church, which he made and is formed like a cross from above. Over the building from where he had his head quarter is there a big picture of him with the words: “Quien no conoce su historia esta condoned a repetirla” (Those who do not know their history will repeat it). 

It is easy to see how Meddellin and Colombia is trying not only tell the world that they have a lot more to offer than drugs, they are also trying to say it to themself. 

With the view over the red tall houses, which are gracing Medellin at the Helicopter-place is it difficult to understand that a man, El Patrón, who had a so huge influence on how Colombia has become today had his headquarter here from June 1991 until July 1992.

 

 

Fact – how to get to La Catedral from Medellin

First take the metro to the metro station Envígado on line A. From Envígado take a bus (usually green bus) to Vereda El Arenales (The sign at the bus just said Arenales). When you are getting into the bus say that you want to go to La Catedral. The price is 2.500 pesos and you will be dropped of around 10 minutes walk from La Catedral.

If you want to go for longer, around 45 minutes. do you ask the bus driver to get of at Vereda El Arenales, price 2.000 pesos. Ask the bus driver or locals how to get from there to La Catedral. (You will be walking in a forest where you just keep right until you see a road a bit ahead of you after small 25 minuntes of walking. Continue at the road uphill around 2 km and you will be at La Catedral).

if you go doing the weekend will there be more people and be sure to be there before 1 pm since the sight where La Catedral is located is closing at this time.

From Narco-Cartel to a Modern City

I see it right away, I am in a richer part, people are dressed well, and everybody are sitting with there Mac BookPro at the Café Pergamino in Poblado, Medellin where I this Thursday are taking a seat to be productive after tree days without internet.

The wipe in the Café Pergamino, is good, the music is loud but chill and for a movement do I fill that I could be wherever I wanted to be in the world, because the wibe I am getting here is universal. – it has no nationality! – But when I am looking around can I hear on the Spanish accent that I am in Colombia, and by taking a short look at the Colombian girls who are passing by me can I for sure say, that the Colombian girls are some of the mush beautiful ones! – if this is a natural phenomena or the reality of the fact that Medellin is one of the cities in the world who are having most plastic surgeries in the world, will I be standing as a open question.

Doing the 90s where Medellin one of the most dangerous cities in the world. The war against the cartel where on its highest. People were killed everyday and a law trying to minimize drive-by-shooting was made, so it where not aloud to be driving two men on a motorbike.

Even today is the politician of Colombia trying to make a peace agreement with the guerrilla- and paramilitary groups. This days are they especially working hard on getting a peace agreement with the biggest guerilla group FARC.

I have now been in Colombia for more than 3 weeks and it is easy to see who diverse the country is. Especially here in Medellin is it easy to see how the life today is more peaceful than for 20-25 years ago.

At the square San Antonio in the center stands what is left of the Fernando Botero statue, which was blew up in the evening of the 10th of June 1995, a night where the square was full of people enjoying the time. 29 people were killed, even today do nobody knows who left a bag with the bomb. Today is the statue a simple of the people who lost their life this evening but also as a hope of a better future. A hope I fill here in Medellin while the Colombian flag is flapping behind the statue this afternoon nearly 20 years after the attack.

 

Symbol for hope and change

Denmark was late to get there first Metro the 19th of October 2002 and at the movement are they constructing a new line. The metro here in Medellin is totally different than any other metro I have tried around the world. It is not the fact that the metro is taking you from A to B as any other metro systems in the world, it is more the meaning of it. The Metro system is showing the hope of changing Medellin into a better place. The Metro was opened the 30th of November 1995, at a time where Medellin was one of the most dangerous cities in the world. The metro is the symbol of hope in Medellin.

When I am entering the metro do I fill a special wibe, it fills like everybody respects it in another way than what I have tried before in other cities. The Metro is the only one in the whole Colombia and it might be the cleanest one I have ever been in. There is no trash, no Grafity, no footprint at the walls and people are walking slowly in and out of the metro. There is nobody trying to sell anything in or at the metro, it fills like a space for peace.

The metro system is well build with metro-cables which is also connecting some of the more poorer areas, so everybody who lives in Medellin has the possibility to use the cheap metro, 2.200 pesos, 0,58 euro per trip. As a tourist is the system essay and efficient to use and with the metro-cables is it possible to get a good view over the city.

 

The Hammock in the Mountains

 

I am on the back of a Motorbike with my big back at the Motorcycle steering when we are driven up the mountain on a small gravel road. The road is narrow when we are driving up the mountain from Minca. The drive is only taking 35 minutes and cost 20.000 COP (5,6 Euro) which I first found a bit expensive compared to the Jeep trip from Santa Marta to Minca, which was 45 minutes with a cost of 7.000 COP (2 Euro), but when we are on the road with the view of the Caribbean Sea and Santa Marta in the background do I understand the price difference. – The road up here is in very bad conditions.  

I am on my way to the hostal, Casa Elemento, 1.200 meters above sea level. Today (monday, 1st of February) is it exactly two weeks since I arrived to Colombia and it is a country that keeps surprising me. 

After spending a few days in Cartagena I am now arriving to Casa Elemento. A place which was one of the reasons for me to go to Colombia. The first time I heard about it were when my friend Alexandra, who is half Colombian and half Norwegian but is living in Copenhagen, who gave me tips about Colombia back in Denmark for months ago. Since i saw a picture of her in a big hammock laying with the scenery of the maintains in the background did I knew that this was a place I needed to go! 

When I am jumping of the Motorbike do I know that I have just arrived to the perfect place to relax and enjoy the scenery for a few days and getting a less humid climate than in Cabo San Juan, Santa Marta and Cartagena where I have been the last days and to have the possibility to lay in a hammock with the view over the maintains, Santa Marta and the Caribbean Sea is just fantastic. 

By sleeping in hammocks in the nature makes me relax, when the sounds from birds monkeys and other animals can be heard from the silence only interned by the other people staying at the Hostel and a soft sound of the music from the bar. Since the Casa Elemento is very isolated is all the meals and drinks going to be here, or at lease it is the easiest way. By dinner at 7.30 when everybody at Casa Elemento are sitting and eating together does it for a short time fill like a small big family here in the mountains 1.200 above sea level. 

 

 

The oldest city in Colombia

Cartagena is famous for its small streets and Spanish architecture since this city was the first city build in Colombia in 1533. It is a part of UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is a famous place for tourist to go. Doing the few days I am spending in Cartagena do I fill to be a bit smashed, up at the walls, because of the huge amount of tourist, which not only are foreigners but also Colombians. It is easy to see that Cartagena is on the top-list for tourist to visit here in Colombia. 

For me does Cartagena has two faces. Doing the day does is there a colorful Spanish-Colombian traditional “wibe”, but when it turns dark and the night slowly starts, is it changing into a colorful music dance city. 

 

The temperature is around 28 degrees, and the salsa music is playing loud from the bar close to the Clock Tower. As in every other Latin American country does the Colombian girls learn how to dance and use their hips like a part of learning to walk. Tonight is the mentoring  dance starting again, and I can say it is impressive to watch. I am getting a beer with Lucero, who is from Peru. I meet her at my hostel in Cali who consequentially was going with the same plane as me to Cartagena – the world is small! 

After the first sip of my beer is a Swedish man, Thorbjörn, who is sitting at the table next to us asking me where I am from. After a small-talk is he inviting Lucero and I over to join him and his Girlfriends at their table. They have been together for 5 years. This is the 11 time Thorbjörn is in Colombia. A country he really loves, and I understandwhy. We are hearing their stories and getting good advise about where to go. They are a very friendly couple. When the bar is closing at 1 am. is Thorbjörn insisting that we need to visit a place that he really loves. 

The Oasis behind the door

We are turning right on the first street from the bar and after walking a few minutes is Thorbjörn knocking on a big door made of wood. The door is opening. By this are we entering a Hotel Boutique, which is a small hotel. By entering the door to Alfiz Hotel Boutique does it fill like entering into a new universe. It is a hiding oasis. We are slowly and with silence looking around since everybody at the Hotel Boutique are sleeping. The hotel is in two floors with a small restaurant in the middle and a pool at the terrace. Thorbjörn is explaining the history about the hotel with enthusiasm. It is his favorite place to stay in Cartagena. The style has been kept in the style as for hundreds yeas ago. (It is possible to get a virtual 360 degree view of the Hotel Boutique here, http://www.alfizhotel.com)

It is interesting to experience how a normal door from the outside can hide one of many oasis. At the same time is it interesting to explore how different everyday is since Lucero and I did see the sunset the evening before from the castle Mall Plaza El Castillo with a view over Cartagena and the Caribbean Sea. 

 

The waves in the dark  

It is dark I am laying in a hammock with the view over the dark Caribbean Sea at the beach, Cabo San Juan del Guia in the Nacional Park “Parque Nacional Tayrona”. 

After walking nearly two hours from the entrance did I arrive to this small oasis at the Sea. The sand is white and the sea is blue/green as the Caribbean Sea is formers for being. After standing in a line for 30-40 minutes did I get the best hammock in my opinion on the top of a ruck around 40 meters above sea-level. 

The night is Dark and the wind is cold, but the silence with only the sound of the waves is all worth it. 

I am waking early the next morning a bit cold, but when I am looking over the sea with the sun slowly rising behind a mountain to my right side does it fill like time is standing still! – Colombia keeps surprising me! 

Colombia – First Impression

The motorbikes are flying around me when I am walking at the street in Bogota. I have just arrived from Mexico City and in comparison to Mexico City is Bogota small. Even though, when I was flying in, was the city surrounded by mountains and looking big, so it might just be the reality of the miss calculation by comparison Bogota with a population of the metropolis of nearly 10 million with one of the worlds biggest Cities.

I cannot see the blue sky for the pollution, which is surrounding Bogota. The pollution even fill stronger here than in Mexico City. My own conclusion of this is because of the mountains that are surrounding Bogota, located in 2,640 meters above see level.

Bogota is not only the capital of Colombia, but it is also where the family of the Cocaine King Pablo Escobar, who had different nicknames as Don Pablo or El Patrón, was send for house arrest in one of the hotels in the center. – The hotel from where the police tracked Pablo Escobar though a phone call and made it possible for them to catch and kill him the 2^nd of December 1993 at a roof top in Medellín. El Patrón became 44 years old.

The Bike-ride 

I am jumping on my bike. I have rented it for the next couple of hours. Not only is Bogota full of Motorbikes, there is also bike-lanes. Doing my first day could I see a lot of people driving on their bikes, so today have I decide to get a City Bike Tour. A tour that turned out to be very interesting since we saw different part of the city and heard good stories and saw some of the many Graffiti paintings, which are many places around the city. Many walls are filled with graffiti with political or social statements. One of them is the graffiti painting that I am starting this post with, with a picture of the journalist and news presenter Jaime Garzón. Who became know for saying “… País de Mierda…” on live TV when he thought he was off. At the painting is there not only a painting of his face, his name but also the words “…hasta aquí las sonrisas, país de mierda…” (It is over Smiling, shitty country) said by a reporter on the night when Garzón where found dead the 13th of august 1999.

The part of the City, which I like the most is the old part, La Candelaria, where the streets are small and narrow.

From the bus from the airport could I see that many other parts of the city are tall and modern. At the movement are they constructing a new Sky Scraper. The BD Bacatá, which is the first crowdfunded Sky Scraper in the world and the first skyscraper to be build in Colombia in 35 years. The latest is the Torre Colpatria, which was completed in 1979 with 50 floors and a height of 196 meter. Torre Colpatria is until BD Bacatá is finishing the tallest building in Colombia and the 5th tallest in South America.

BD Bacatá is estimated to be finishing later this year where the South tower will have 67 floors and be 240 meter when the North tower will have 56 floors and be 216 m. By this will it be the tallest building in Bogota and the second tallest in Latin America only surpassed by the Gran Torre Santiago with its 300 meters and 60 floors which was completed in 2014 in Santiago de Chile, Chile.

 

Mountain ride

I’m sitting here in the back of a old Mitsubishi 4×4 and jumping around at the back set since the road here in the mountains are not the same standards as the once we are use to back in Denmark. But when I’m looking out of the window doesn’t the jumping around really matter at all. I am in the mountains around San Augustin, in the southern part of Colombia.

San Agustin is famous for its Archaeological Park, which became a part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Site in 1995. Therefore am I not only going to see great nature and waterfalls, El Estrecho, Alto de los Ìdolos, Alto de las Piedras, Salto de Bordones and Salto de Mortiño, as I am also going to see this special sculptures. By looking at these sculptures is it magnificent to see how it was possible for so many years ago to make this piece of art!

On the way to the Archaeological Park does our driver stop the car for a movement. For a movement am I sitting still, not jumping around here at the backseat. By looking out of the window on my right side, can I see a big thick black smoke. It does not really look like green energy they are producing here, do I think to myself, when I am getting closer can I see that they are making sugar plates. It is a fabric. We are taking a look around. The fabric is not big, but there is what they need. There is a machine to press the cane so the juice of sugar is coming out. After this is the juice getting into three hot baths to be distilled. Finally is the sugar getting a thick consistency with a copper color before it is going to poured over in a form and be cooled down. It is very sweet when I am tasting a small piece of a plate.

 

Cali the salsa town

It is Sunday, which means a day for families in Latin America and so as well here in Colombia. I am on my way to Cerro de Las Tres Cruces that is located in 1.400 meters and I can easily say that I am not the only one.

Eventhough the track is hard to find because of no signs is it easy to fine the way to the top after the starting point, since I only need to follow all the people in front of me.

The sweat is running down their faces the temperature is around 28 degrees Celsius and it is humid but this still does not stop people for lifting weights just in front of Las Tres Cruces. People are even standing in lines for their turn to make pull-ups, push-ups and lifting waits. Not everybody has climbed the mountain to enjoy the view over Cali, even though it is a bit cloudy so the whole city is difficult to be seen. Many people have found their way up here to do exercises

The lines for the small pop-up juice and ice-creem stands are long. It is easy to see it is Sunday. The family day of the week here at Cerro de Las Tres Cruces and in Latin America.

After spending a week in Colombia is my first impression of Colombian that they are friendly but do not speak as loud as Mexicans. They are using different words to formulate the same things, so doing my first days do I need to convert my Mexican-Spanish into Colombian-Spanish. Colombia is world famous for their beautiful women, and I can immediately see the differences from what I have seen before. The women here is smaller, are having curves. As well do they now how to move their hips, which they are learning as a part of learning to walk as everybody does in Latin America. Especially is Cali famous for being a Salsa City, which truly understand why. At the same time is Colombia a diverse ethical country do to their history and Slavery. So even though you may not think about it, there is still a huge racism do to their race.

The Caribbean Sea

After visiting 5 Azteca and Maya temples, visiting four states, 8 cities and traveled more than 2500 km by bus in 12 days is it time to say goodbye. 

Bjørn and I have enjoyed the last days of our trip in Tulum after visiting Merida and Chichén Itzá, which is famous for its archaeological site that has the biggest ball court of all Maya cities. It is an impressive site but very touristic in comparison to Monte Alban, the Ruin of Palenque and Teotihuacán in Mexico City. As well was the Cave next Chichén Itzá very touristed. 

 

Before our visit to Merida and Chichén Itzá did we take a stopover in Palenque to see the ruins and to visit one of the famous tourist sites “Aqua Azul”, which is a huge waterfall. A waterfall we wanted to see before we ended our trip in Tulum.

 

The purpose of our stay in Tulum is not only to see the Caribbean Sea, it is also to see Mexico from another perspective. As we are doing, when we are enjoying the view over the Caribbean Sea, from the Ruin of Tulum, which was the latest build Maya complex before the Spain came to Latin America. 

Tulum is mostly famous for its beaches, as the whole coastline from Cancun to Belize, where the Black Whole can be found. Therefore is this destination very popular for Americans and European, which is the reason why Yucatán for some is the synonym of beaches and even the paradise. By using the word paradise in Marketing, does this at the same time mean a different experience as a tourist, since it is possible to pay with US Dollars, and all prices are giving in this currency. Therefore is Yucatán a huge contrast to the life for Mexican we earlier have experienced in Oaxaca and Chiapas. 

 

On the bikes to the Cave

Not only is Yucatan famous for its beaches, it is also well known for its Caves. There are many different caves in Yucatán. They have different sizes and different purpose. The one we are on our way to today is famous for being a cave where you can Swim, Snorkel or even scupper-dive depending on what you are up to. Even though the weather is warm in comparison to Denmark and Mexico City is it still ambivalent as today where it is a cloudy blowing day. Doing the night has it been raining constantly, but the weather does not stop us. We have rented two bikes so we can have the freedom to go where we want when we want. 

It is the first time in half a year I am sitting on a bike. The Cave we are on our way to today is “The Gran Cenote”. The Cave is only located around 4 km from our hotel in Tulum. The road is straight and easy. Our only competitor is the wind. After half an hour drive are we arriving, the first view, which we are getting is a whole where the water is located around 20 meters under.  

We are changing to bathing suits. The water is cold, but fresh at the same time, when I am getting into it. There is no salt in the water but instead is the water full of different animals, just under me is there a lot of small fish. There is a cave in front of me it looks as a bridge that I can swim though, so I can see the light on the other side. 

As we are starting to swim into the cave, can Bjørn and I see that we are not alone. When we are swimming can I see ahead of us a lot of bats hanging with their heads down. Soddenly is one of the bats taking takeoff. It is starting to make circles around the cave. It is just passing by over our heads. I can hear their jelling. It is fascinating and a bit scary at the same time, because here above us is there around 50 bats. Some of them are relaxing others are looking for foot, while we are enjoying the surroundings and the water. 

 

The Turtles

Coming out of the cave can give the filling of relaxing after having bats flying over my head, and with the view of the Tuttle do I start to understand more and more, why this Cave is a good choose to pick. The turtles are having their own corner, from where it is not allowed to swim. It is fascinating to look at this animal that can become so old. The way they move with there small legs coming out of their shield is relaxing to see. As well when their small heads are getting up over the water surface to get air before they start diving again. 

 

 

The meal at the Caribbean Sea

Time is flying when you are in good company! – For just two weeks ago did Bjørn and I enjoy New Year with Morten & Gaby at a restaurant in Polanco in Mexico City. Now at this movement are we sitting and enjoying a Lobster and Shrimps together at the Caribbean Sea. 

We have arranged that before Bjørn and I are splitting up, where he will be going back to Malaysia and I will have the weekend in Mexico City before I will be going to Colombia, do we need to enjoy seafood at the Caribbean Sea. For me is it impossible to be at the Caribbean Sea without enjoying a lobster as I did for two years ago, when I was visiting Cuba. At the beach of Tulum are there a lot of different options for good Hotels and restaurants. Therefor after finding a quiet Hotel with a good view at the Sea, are we ordering a Lobster and Scrimps accompanied with Beers. Even though the skies are cloudy and the wind is strong, is it a beautiful view we are having here at our last day in Tulum and the last day of our trip together in Mexico. It has been a good two weeks travel with my Brother since it is four years ago we have been traveling only us two together the last time, when we where traveling together in Asia, visiting, Hong Kong, China, South Korea, Nepal and India in a month. 

Since Bjørn is working do he need to be back to Malaysia Monday morning the 18th of January. Therefore do he need to fly out of Mexico already Friday afternoon since he want to cross the Date-line so he, when he is landing Sunday in Kuala Lumpur can say that he have travelled around the world doing his month of Christmas holiday by flying nearly 40.000 km. His route home is first Cancun to Houston, then Houston to Taipei and finishing with a flight from Taipei to Kuala Lumpur. Personally will I have a much shorter trip, where I will be spending the weekend in Mexico City, before I Monday the 18th of January will be flying to Bogota to explore Colombia. A visit I have been waiting for and been looking forward to in two years. 

Out in the Mountains – The Zapatistas

The taxi is flying around the corner with the mountains on our right side. The driver is taking the curves as ware we part of a rally race. We are somewhere north of San Cristobal. We are heading off to the unknown. We are in the direction of Oventic, a small village that is controlled by “El Ejercito Zapatista de Liberación Nacional” (EZLN) translated into English; The Zapatista Army of National Liberation, often referred to as the “Zapatistas”.

We are excited because we do not exactly know what is a head of us, since the Zapatistas is an “organization” in Chiapas who are working for making their own societies with no control from the Mexican government in Mexico City, which has lead to huge conflicts between the two parts since 1994, where they declared “war against the Mexican State”. Their political inspirations is coming from: Zapatismo, Marxism and Liberal Socialism.

Not only do the Zapatistas fill they are suppressed by the Mexican government, because they fill they are to far from the life in the mountains of Chiapas to the decisions made in Mexico City. The conflict is ongoing, even though right know it is not so eruptive, so for many is the fight a form of a “hidden war”. One of the biggest massacres doing the war was the 22th of December, 1997, where 45 people where killed doing a prayer meeting of Roman Catholics in the small village Acteal. Doing the murdered people where children and pregnant women, who were members of the group Las Abejas who supported the Zapatistas.

Doing the years have there been a lot of western people as international observers to make sure that no human rights treaties are violated. Even though doing my five-month in Mexico have I never head about any fights doing the Zapatistas and the paramilitary but since it is an ongoing war can the situation change from day to day, as we later are experiencing on our way to Palenque, where we need to change our plans do to the direction because of road-blocks. Road-blocks and checkpoints which before was a everyday thing for the Zapatistas in the mountains around San Cristobal.

 

The gate 

The landscape is green and the sky is blue when we are driving through the corners. After around an hour’s drive does the taxi stop. On our left side is there a big sign saying, “Esta Usted en territorio Zapatista en Rebeldia. Aqui Manda el Puebla y el Gobierno Obedece” (“You are in the territory of Zapatista in rebellion. Here commands the village and the government obeys). On the other side of the road is there a gate with two small checkpoint houses where tree people are standing, all with full face-mask with the letters “EZLN” wrote in red. The Four letters that symbolize the Zaptistas.

From the outside does it look like a small village with a gate, but with the history of what the Zapatistas is fighting for and can do am I going slowly and respectful forward to the gate, from where I am meet by two of the tree men. One of the man is having a paper and a pin in his hand.

I can only see their eyes, when I softly and friendly are asking them if Bjørn and I can get though the gate to visit their city, Oventic. We have been advised to bring our passports since they in the gate usually want to see them as ID. Therefor when the men are starting to ask us about our names, profession and purpose of our visit to Oventic am I not surprised. When the man with the paper and our information’s is turning around and walking into a house nearby with our informations and after some time is returning and saying that we are welcome, Am I more surprised that it was so easy without even showing any form of ID to get in. Maybe the beautiful day with the sun falling down on us had an influence…

 

The silence mask

The atmosphere is tense when we are walking down the “main” road in the small village, Even though not as much as I had experienced four years earlier at the border between North- and South- Korea.

As expected are we not allowed to walk alone in the village. We got a guide who also is wearing a full face-mask where we only can see his eyes, but according to his hands and eyes can I tell that he is not the youngest Zapatista in the village.

We are meeting a lot of students on our way down to the basketball court and the school. The pupils are just having a brake at the time we are arriving. We are not talking with any of them. I can easily fill the distance that is between us. Our guide is telling me that there are around 160 students at the school and it is this school and the hospital that the Zapatistas have made since the government did not want to support it. This information is some of the only information I can get out of our guide since he not really wants to talk – and I don’t want to put more pressure on the atmosphere.

The walls of the houses are full of painting telling stories with words expressing the idea of the Zapatistas. The red star is not only represented at the baskets at the basketball court but also in some of the paintings as well as Ché Guevara, known from the Revolution in Cuba. When we are entering a small shop with different T-Shirts is it easy to see that we are surrounded by people who are part of a revaluation. Some of the T-Shirts in the shop are having a picture of Ché Guevara with the face of a Zapatista giving salute to Ché while he is warring a full face-mask with the four letters “EZLN” as we have seen the men warring at the gate.

 

Another T-Shirt is having the words “Ya Basta” (no more) printed. Another T-Shirt is saying “Esta es nosotra” (this is us) with a picture of a fingerprint painted so it looks like a full face-mask and before we are getting supported out of the gate is there a big face-painted with Ché Guevara.

With the wall-picture of a heart with the words “Amor y Revolición” (Love and Revolution) and the masks at my retinal are we getting into a Taxi to take it back to San Cristobal. Even though we by our visit got the filling of being in a war-zone where the war at the movement is more political than physical, is this still a fact that can change as fast as the win is doing it doing a day. Because this is Mexico, so everything is changing all the time, but still it was interesting to see this village, which should be the biggest of five that the Zapatistas are controlling in Chiapas.

 

Somewhere in Oaxaca

The door is closing behind me. I have just left the AirBnB apartment, which Bjørn and I have been renting for some days.

We are on our way to the bus Station TAPO in Mexico City, from where we are going to take a night-bus to Oaxaca. With the door lucked behind me is my 5 month of exchange at ITAM over. 5 month where I have been living in Mexico City, one of the biggest cities in the world, and where I have had the honer to meet some wunderfull people, learn a lot about Mexicans and their culture, and had time to travel.

A new chapter is starting when we are entering the bus, because doing the next two weeks will we be traveling in the States Chiapas and Yucatán.

 

The view from the top 

It is quiet this Saturday morning, when we are looking for a place to have breakfast at the Zocalo Square in Oaxaca before we are going on a half-hour bus-ride to the famous Monte Albán.

We are taking the first bus to the ruins so we can enjoy the site with not many tourist. It is a bit cloudy and colder than in Mexico City, but the air is more fresh, before the sun is starting to shine though the skies. We are here nearly in silence except of a Spanish group who is talking loudly and shouting to each other, but this noise can still not destroy the beautiful view from the top of the mountain, from where it is possible to get a view over the City of Oaxaca and the surroundings.

In the footsteps of the Mezcal

Many people thinks of Tequila when they hear the word Mexico, but Mexico have a lot more to offer than just the Tequila. From great beaches, nature, culture and people do Mexico also has the Mezcal. The State Oacaxa is famous for its Mezcal production, which is made on the Maguey plant. So when I am looking out of the window of the bus on the days tour, can I see a lot of straight lines of the Maguey plants. There is no doubt that we are in the home field of the Mezcal. After seeing embroidery factory and the world widest tree are we entering the parking site for a Mezcal factory.

The hearts of the Maguey plants are laying in front of a hole in the ground. Just next to this can we see the smoke from the distillation. There is a soft smell of Alcohol in the air. The process of Mezcal starts at the field, where the leaves are cut of the plant so only the heart is left. The hearts are then going to be steamed for around 5 days, in a hole in the ground, which is surrounded by stones, which get their heat from a fire, which is burning for 3 hours before the hearts are going to be dammed.

When the hearts are dammed will they have a brown color. The hearts do now have to cool for a while. After the cooling are they going to be mast by a big stone, which a horse pulls. When the hearts are mast to a form of a porridge will they be stored in a bowel for up to two weeks before the juice is ready to be distilleries.

The first Mezcal which is coming out from the distillery have an alcohol volume around 50%. To make the volume smaller do they distilleries the Mezcal again, so it will get the more normal alcohol volume between 25-45%. After the distillation will the alcohol be stored on barrels. The time the Mezcal will be in the barrels is different from type to type, which can be from 6 month till 8 years. As usually are we finishing our tour with a Mezcal tasting which we have been looking forward to and I can conclude that my favorite at this fabric is the 8 years Mezcal, which have been laying 8 years on barrels. The cheapest Mezcal at this fabric is the blended, which has an alcohol percentage around 20-25%. This type of Mezcal will have different tastes from Coffee to mango, which gives them the name Cream.

The perspective

After the visit to the Mezcal fabric are we heading off to visit the Mitla ruin, which was build at the same time as Monte Albán, located nearly 44 km from the City of Oaxaca. Today is only 30% of the building rebuild where 70% is the original, which is a big contrast to Monte Albán where around 70% of the archaeologically site is rebuild and only around 30% is the original. When we are walking around the Mitla ruin, is it interesting to see all the details they could build when it was build between 450 and 700 CE. Mitla was still used when the Spaniards arrived and destroyed most of it.

When we are getting into the small van and heading of out to the mountains can I not stop thinking of how many historical sites Spain has destroyed when they came to Latin America though Christoffer Columbus in 1492…

We enter some small gravel roads, when we are having the mountains at our site, with the soft and light evening sun sighing at them, so they are looking soft. We have arrived to a viewpoint over the mountains of Oaxaca. Under us is there small natural water from where people are bathing. The water is full of salt and minerals, and the views from this spot with the soft light makes the time stand still. I fill like I can be everywhere in the world! – But right now, at this time am I in Oaxaca, Mexico and our journey to San Cristobal will start in a few hours, but right now is the time standing still, because of this great view I am having in front of my eyes.

 

“I want to go around the world” – Bjørn

After a delay of nearly 7 hours can I finally see Bjørn, my Brother, walking out of the automatically-doors in the Airport in Mexico City. Bjørn is now living in Kuala Lumpur but is arriving to celebrate New Year with Morten, Gaby and Me in Mexico City. After I have been showing Morten and Gaby some parts of Mexico City will Bjørn and I be traveling to the states Chiapas and Yucatan until the 15th of January. This means that we know are in the same Time-Zone so we do not have the usually 14 hours between us as we have had since August.

Not only will Bjørn explore parts of Mexico before he is going back to Kuala Lumpur he will also have been flying around the world when he is coming back to Malaysia since he started his journey by celebrated Christmas in Denmark with our parents and family.

 

 

 

A visit from Denmark with “Bull’s Travel”

I am waiting in the airport. It is the 25th of December and I have just arrived from Veracruz, where I have been spending my Christmas Evening. It has been a good but different Christmas in Veracruz. Now am I standing in the airport and waiting for some of Family to arrive to Mexico City from Denmark, to be more precise Morten & Gaby.

My smile is getting bigger, when I can see them walk out the automatic doors to the arrival hall. They have been arriving to a week as tourist in Mexico City, which has been “My City” for five month.

A city full of contrasts 

With around 22 million people can it be expected that there will be different contrast in Mexico City. For example Contrasts from rich and poor areas. Doing my semester in Mexico City have I found places that I like and places I want to show Morten & Gaby. Therefor after the Breakfast do I pick Morten & Gaby up at their hotel, so “Bull’s Travel” can begin. We are heading off with the Metrobus to the Historical Center. The first stop today will be the Zocalo Square. Since Mexico City is located in nearly 2250 meters height above sea-level is it important to drink water and not walk to fast.

Even though the Zocalo square is full of a big Christmas setup with a ice track and a huge Christmas tree and a big Pinata, so it is difficult to get the right image of the size of the square, can I still see that Morten & Gaby is happy to be here, when the sun is shining on them.

When we are sitting at the traditional Mexican restaurant Café de Tacuba is a traditional Mariachi band walking in the door and starting to play. Everybody in the room is turning in the direction of the Mariachi band and when they are playing is it easy to see that they are not some strangers from the streets because they can actually play, as Morten comment.

Not only is there a big contrast from Roma Norte and Condesa to Polanco and to Coyoacán, there is also a big contrast in-between people and services which I want to show Morten & Gaby by visiting different restaurants and areas and tourist sides. So after spending the second day in the park; El Parque de Chapultepec, is it time to see the new Star Wars movie, which there has been so much hype around this days. The reason why I have invited them in the cinema is not only to see the movie but it is also to experience the VIP Cinema where you are sitting in huge chairs which can move back so it becomes an electronic armchair. Not only is the comfort excellent in the VIP Cinema but it is also possible to order food and drinks doing the movie which is a standard I have never seen in a Danish Cinema!

 

The arrival of the third family member

Because of 3 hours delay in Copenhagen is Bjørn, my brother, arriving nearly 7 hours later than planned. So after he had have Christmas with our family in Denmark has he now travelled nearly around half the globe from his home in Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, to spend New Year with Morten, Gaby and Me here in Mexico City.

The show must go on, so even though he only have sleep a few hours after a night in JFK in New York are we all sitting in the Uber on our way to “Casa Azul”, which was the home for Frida Kahlo in Coyoacán. – A must see if you have ordered a tour with “Bull’s Travel” en Mexico City. – So it is with big expectations we are entering the line for guest with an online ticket. This day is there full of people in the line to enter Casa Azul, since it is a few days before New Year. – Therefor is it a good idea to buy the tickets online to avoid hours in the regular line!

This visit to Casa Azul is my third time I am visiting the house of Frida Kahlo in half a year and the fourth in total, but for me her personality and story is still interesting. Her way to fight with constant pain because of her existent as a 18 year old women where she broke her back so she for long periods only could be in her bed is fascinating, as how her relationship with Diego Rivera did have a huge impact on her own art.

Her house is bigger from the inside than what you expect from the outside so after we have spend around an hour and a half in the spirit of Frida Kahlo is it time to see a bit more of the traditional Coyoacán, which mean that we of cause need to try the traditional Churros with different creams in the middle. – Such as, Mango, Chocolate, Bailey or Tequila.

The Archeological-site

We have just sat our feet on the ground from the bus to Teotihuacán, when we can see four men in traditional clothes climbing up a stick, as I saw with Mads when I was in Guadalajara (you can read the story from this trip here: https://tokebull.wordpress.com/2015/11/05/the-visit-guadalajara/). The men is playing traditional music, when they are getting ready to swing them self around the stick in a rope.

3,2,1 and we can all see them falling. They are 4 swinging around the stick all tired with a rope to the stick but one is not. He is climbing down the rope with the headfirst and doing acrobatic things at the same time while the others are swinging and getting closer to the ground.

When they all are save down at the ground is the audience start clapping. When I am looking Bjørn, Morten & Gaby can I see that they now are ready to start the Journey to clime The pyramid of Sun and The Pyramid of the Moon.

It is my third time I am seeing this pyramids but every-time is it interesting and fascinating to see! Never before at my two other visits have I seen so many people at the site, it must be because many families are having holiday, I’m I thinking to myself. To get to the top of the Pyramid the Sun do we need to use more than an hour. Not because we are slow but because the line to get up is long and slow… – But the view at the top is still fascinating, even though the line to get back down, is going al around the highest platform. – A fact we are concluding when we are enjoying a bottle or two of a Mexican Tempranillo from Baja Californian and different samples of Argentinian Meat at the Restaurant La Vid Argentina in Condesa, where Morten is meeting his best waiter doing is stay in Mexico City.

Even though the waiter did not speak any form of Spanish did he still has a good humor and they could communicate even though the waiter sometimes was looking at me with a face as “what does this stranger say?” – when Morten spoke to him in Danish.

New Year with Danish traditions

In Denmark do we have some traditions about New Year Even though every family is having their own tradition! Therefore did we not want to miss the once a year experience where the Danish Queen, Margrethe the 2^nd, is having her speak live at National-TV at 18.00 Danish time.

So at 11.00 in the morning Mexican Time were we all ready with Champagne, my moms homemade “Kransekage” – which is made by marzipan – and Of cause a laptop ready to stream her speak live from Denmark.

When we have finished the bottle of Champagne are we ready to see the big Diego Rivera wall-painting in “El Palacio National” before we are taking a beer at 17.00 Mexican Time, when Denmark and Europe will walk into the New Year 2016.

Since we are 5600 miles from Denmark are we not going to have traditional Danish food for New Year but instead have we found the restaurant La Buena Barra in Polanco, which is located at 3th floor with a terrace. We are getting a table at the terrace which is covered when we are taking our seats, but before midnight do the waiters come with a lot of balloons in Black and Gold. When the clock is ticking 00.00 do they open the roof so the balloons can fly into the New Year 2016.

Except of four fireworks and the balloons is there nothing big happening, so in comparison to all the firework in Denmark is it still a quiet New Year in Mexico City. If the heavy grey duvet of pollution is having an impact of the bad visibility will I leave in the un known, but when we are taking a look at the dance floor is it starting to get packed and the ladies hips are swinger from side to side, while we are taking a 6 cl shot of Tequila and saying “Happy New Year” – because as you know, we are in Mexico.

 

The Mexican Cooking Class

We are on our way to a Mexican Cooking Class, We are all very excited for the class because we are not sure what will be waiting us on the other side of the door, in this apartment in Polanco in Mexico City. 

Today is the class going to be with the lovely Mexican cook, Ernesto, who only speaks Spanish. So after having an introduction to the main dish of today; the traditional “Mole” in English is the rest of the Class going to be in Spanish. So when Morten & Gaby are starting to cut cactus and onions am I trying to translate the best I can.

Ernesto knows what he is doing because when he is not teaching us, is he a teacher at a cooking school in the northern part of Mexico City. Ernesto is nervous in the beginning because usually does the classes not take place in a private home, but in a kitchen of a restaurant, but because of the reservation in a short advance and because the restaurant is close is it taking place in a private home. As the cooking is moving forward is Ernesto relaxing more and more. Doing the whole class is one thing sure, he knows what he is doing and by this is Ernesto giving us a good class and experience in the Mexican Gastronomy. 

Not only are we going to make Mole with chicken. We are also going to make tacos with a salad and for desert are we going to cook Rice with Milk with a red source of chili marmalade. The desert does look a bit like the Danish “Risengrød” or “Risalamande” which many families are having as desert for Christmas Evening with Cherry-Jubilee at the top. The big difference from the Danish form and the Mexican form of Rice with Milk is the consistency and the taste. Especially does the Mexican form has a huge taste of cinnamon. 

 

 

After nearly 3 hours of cooking, tasting and eating is the class over and we all are walking out to the elevator with a good feeling in your stomach. Not only are we totally full of good food, we have also learned more about the Mexican Gastronomy.

 

Tailormade in Mexico

Who have not had the dream of making your own shoes? – I have always wanted to walk into a leather store, and pick the leather that I wanted. By Adriana, http://www.adrianariveratorres.com, this became true, because not only did I got some shoes Tailormade in Mexico, I also got the possibility, to choose my leather by choosing it all by myself.

Never before have I tried to walk into a leather store, which is in three floors and choose the leather I wanted for my Shoes. The store is having a lot of different sections depending on how thick the leader need to be depending of which type of shoes you want. Not only is the 100% leather but by looking at the huge collection of colors can it easy be hard to choose the one which will be the best.

After choosing a brown nearly coffee colored leather for the shoes and a white leather for the inside of the shoes, is it time to go to the tailor, who with help from Adriana is going to make the shoes.

I’m going to have two different pair of shoes taller made. A traditional Chelsea Boot and a Boot with a style from the 1900 with different details.

The following pictures, shows some of the customizing process of the Chelsea boots:

 

The designer Adriana with a pair of hear own designed Shoes. The Photo is taken at San Juan De Ulúa, Veracruz.

I’m going to the Barbershop

You see the stick in blue, red and white spinning around in front of the entrance to the Barbershop. We are entering The Barber’s Spa at Av Monterrey in Roma Norte. It is Saturday the 31st of October and Mads is going to shave off all his beard, which he had been growing for some months. 

 

By entering the door, it does fill like going back in time, back to the lovely 20s in a Barbershop in America, or at lease as I imagine a barbershop from this time. There is three Barber chairs, all in red leather and in the 20s style. There even is a smell of a Barbershop, when Mads is taking place in one of the chairs. The Barber is warring a white shirt with black suspenders and a black bow tie – the style is completed. He is laying Mads down in the chair, so the “operation” can begin. 

 

The floor is getting full of black beard after the Barber has used the machine to cut the most of the beard. The beard is now having the right length to being cut by a new Barber-knife. The face of Mads is getting white, when the Barber is putting the barber-foam on his skin. The time as come where Mads needs to trust the Barbar when he is starting to use the sharp knife for cutting his beard. 

The precision from the Barber is fascinating. It is a craft I’m looking at, when the Barber is cutting the beard with the barber-knife. It starts to bleed from a few points of the skin, but it is all stopping when the Barber is butting different types of creams on his skin.

The Barber is putting the chair back to the starting position. The session is finishing with a small shoulder and neck massage by a massage-machine, which the Barber is putting on his hand. 

When Mads is walking out of The Barber’s Spa is he looking good but different without his beard. Mads is now ready to take part of Movember. Movember is a month long campaign in November where men all over the world are growing there moustage to “Change the face of men’s health”, as the campaign describes; http://www.movember.com. The idea of the campaign, which started in 2004, is to put focus on Prostate cancer, Testicular cancer, Mental problems and Physical inactivity just to name some examples. 

 

The dog and the color-contrast – Photo session for ART

We are turning on a corner when we see the small narrow street, Calle Aguacate, which is showing up just in front of us. It is only possible for a small car to get though the street when we are walking to the corner from where big old stones from the Middle Ages are making the wall. In the corner of the wall is there a picture of a “Virgin” with some flowers. It is just the spot Adriana & I have been looking for. Adriana Rivera Torres (ART) is a shoe designer and today I am going to take pictures of some of her shoes with Isra as model. Adriana who is born in Veracruz lives now in Mexico City where she is having her own shoe company; http://www.adrianariveratorres.com.

It is Sunday, and the sun has just decided to let some light revision through the clouds and for every minute we are getting ready for the photo session at calle Aguacate are the blue skies becoming more and more visible.

The light is good, when I am asking Isra, the model of the session today to stand in front of the red wall to take some close up portraits before I am asking him to stand in front of the “Virgin”. It is quiet when I am starting to take the pictures. Isra is easy to work with and with hints from Adriana are the pictures in process.

Today are we going to photograph Isra with five of her shoes. We wants to make the locations different but still with a old look, which is the reason why we have choosing to walk around in Coyoacán, because in Coyoacán do you not have the filing of being in Mexico City when you are walking around in this quiet part of the city.

Many of the houses are colorful and are build in the old colonial style, which gives a filing of coming back in time. Especially when we are standing in front of one of the oldest churches in Coyoacán, Parroquia De Santa Catarina, are all the pieces fitting.

The light is fin, the contrast between the blue, yellow, grey walls are good, and just there, out from the door is a dog standing. I do not know what it is with dogs, but Mexicans loves them, especially girls, so for a second do Isra and Adriana not take any attention to what I am asking them to do, because they are looking at the dog. I quickly become aware that we need to have a picture with Isra, with a par of Adriana’s shoes and the dog in one picture. First is the dog walking back inside but after some minutes it is coming back out. The dog is just standing right there, with its head out. Isra is standing perfect. The contrast in the colors of the walls is making everything perfect. The smile on Adriana’s Face is getting bigger and when the dog is going back in and the door is getting closed behind it, can we all look at each other and with the look that says: “That was it. We just got the photo!”

A visit from Denmark

We are on our way up to the tens flour. We are in the elevator of Fontan Hotel at Paseo de Reforma close to the Metro station Hidalgo in the historical center of Mexico City. We are exited, when we are exiting the elevator. My parents have just arrived from Denmark the evening before and we are now going to have breakfast with the view over a part of Mexico.

I’ve been looking forward to show them some parts of Mexico City before they are going on a 12 days tour to the states Chiapas, and Yucatan. They have decided to arrive Saturday the 31st of October, which is the “Día del Muerto”, so when we are exiting the hotel in the evening to have dinner, is the road between Zocalo and Plaza de la Revolución totally packed with people. My guess is that there have been around 2 million people on the streets. The Mexican celebrating the “Día del Muerto”, with painting in their faces, with loud music like we know from a festival and even though some have seen the new James Bond movie “Spectre” which is starting in Mexico City at “Día del Muerto”, can I say that it is not totally the same scenery which can be seen on the streets. – People do not really ware masks but is instead painted in their faces and for example is there no parade with skeletons but instead have there at UNAM and other places around the city been a lot of exhibitions to celebrate the day. So when we are sitting at the morning table at the tens floor this Sunday morning, have my parents already got a small indication of how many people there can be on the streets and by looking over parts of the city are they getting a small indication of how big the city actually is.

 

The Blue house 

Do to the “Día del Muerto” do I have two days off from ITAM which is a good timing because I then have time to show my parents a little around and let them get a small taste of some of the Mexican specialties; such as Churros, which can be best compared to a waffle but with the form as hotdog-bread. We have stopped at a churro place in the center of Coyacán, where you can get the churros with nearly everything. So we are choosing three with Mango, Bailey and Tequila, after we have been visiting the famous Frida Kahlo Museum.

The Frida Kahlo museum which is located in the big blue house where she lived until her dead the 13th of July 1954, is a must see when you are in Mexico City. Therefore was this also on the top of our list to visit.

As I’ve mentioned in some of my earlier blog updates is Mexico City a big but diverse city. Every area fills like coming to a different city, which was one of the things I would like to show my parents. So after spending the first day in Coyacán, had a made a plan to go to the more expensive area of the city, more exact Polanco where we was going to see the museum Soumaya, which among other paintings are having a exhibition with a wide repertoire of status made by Salvador Dalí. The day was finished in the Lincoln Park.

 

The Hip area

On our way to Marcado Roma, was it easy to see that we again was in another Area compared to the historical center where you can find the Zocalo, Bellas Artes, the old post-office and La plaza de la Revolución, Coyacan at the south and the more fancy Polanco which they have seen doing the last two days.

When we are entering the small but new Marcado Roma to fill the atmosphere and get a little snack and a beer is my mom immediately comparing it with “Tovehallerne” or “Papirøen” in Copenhagen.

After enjoying the atmosphere at Marcado Roma are we walking to a small wine bar in the hip Condesa, where we are crossing by El parque Mexico and El parque España from where we are seeing a lot of people walking with their dogs. Condesa is famous for being hip right now, where people have dogs and looks hipster.

When we are arriving to the Wine bar are we finding it with a wide repertoire of Mexican wine to a good price where it also is possible to order some small tapas positions. There aren’t many people when we are entering it, but it is cozy with its minimalist expression and subdued lightning. It is a good place to spend our last night together before my parents will be traveling to the south to experience some of the “real” Mexico, with its nature, history and culture.

 

A welcome back with Tequila & Mezcal 

The time is going fast when you are experience a lot and seeing a lot of new things everyday, so after 12 days traveling with the last 3 days relaxing in Cancun is my parents back in Mexico City with a lot of new experience and a lot of stories to tell.

Nearly no mater how much time you will be spending in Mexico City will you never be done with seeing all. It is no wander why it is the city in the world with the most Museums, so after seeing the museum “Nacional de Arte”, from where the parade in the beginning of “Spectre” is taking place, does it not take us long until we are standing in front of the Tequila and Mezcal museum MUTEM. Because as I have been told a lot of times, you can not have been in Mexico without drinking one of the two.

The Museum is not that big, but it is impressive have many bottles of Tequila and Mezcal they can have on so small space. After reading about the production and the differences of the cactus that are being use are we taking the stairs up to the rooftop tares from where we are getting a small taste of one Tequila and one Mezcal. I’m not sure if it is in our family name “Bull” or just a matter of taste, why both my mom and dad both agree that the Mezcal is having the best taste? – Mezcal that also is my favorite.

 

The Constitution

Everything has an ending no matter how long time you are having. So while we are sitting to the breakfast and looking over the city, as we have been doing the last few days, have we every day could see at the end of Paseo de Reforma a castle on a hill. It is not just a castle, it is the Castle; “Castillo de Chapultepec”, which is located in the biggest park, Chapultepec, in Mexico City.

After around 30 minutes walk from our hotel are we entering the park of Chapultepec. A pack from where a huge monument can be seen in front of us while we at the same time can see a lot of different squirrel around us running up and down the trees. We are continuing up the hill to see the “Museo del Caracol”, where the Mexican flag is hanging beside the constitution from 1917 with the eagle as the protector made in granite in top can be experienced.

With a short explanation of the Mexican complex history are we getting ready to continue our way up “Castillo de Chapultepec”, which not only is famous for its factor in the Mexican History but also from the Academy Award-nominated movie “William Shakespeare’s Romeo & Juliet”, which was filmed there in 1996.

The construction was started in 1778 and completed in 1788 and today is the Castle the “Museo Nacional de Historia”, where there not only is a good view over Mexico City, from where the difference areas can be seen a bit from above and the line down Paseo the Reforma can be explored with the statue “El Ángel de la Independencia in the middle. The Castle also housing some huge wall paintings that is telling their own story about the Mexican history. It is a very impressive place to visit before and a perfect ending for my parents before they are getting ready to reach their flight back to Denmark.

Vamos México

The train is filled to its maximum. I can’t move and so can’t the others. We are on our way to the 3. biggest stadium in the world, La Estadio Azteca, with a capacity of 105.064 people, build in 1966. Tonight is Mexico playing against San Salvador.

After “fighting” or pushing hard to get of the train is it now just to follow the mass. I can see the big block of concrete in front of me. It is huge. On our way to the entrance is Nina buying a Mexican flag and Celine is buying a princess crone in the color of the Mexican flag.

We are just entering our sites at the stadium, when the kickoff begins. The atmosphere this night is good, especially when a wave starts and is going around the stadium for four rounds. On the steep steps are waiters going around serving the audience.

The stadium is steep so even though that we are sitting far away from the field doesn’t it fill so. When I’m looking around is it only the green color I can see, because all Mexican is wearing a green shirt to represent their team.

“Puto”

The arms is in the air and the noise is getting louder every time the goalkeeper from El Salvador is getting ready to kick the ball. When he kicks it, is the whole stadium shouting “Puto” (prostitute).

Doing the whole game is the atmosphere high especially after only few minutes’ play when Mexico is scoring to 1-0.

Doing the game is people starting to sing the famous song; Cielito lindo. So it fills more being to a family party than at a football match.

The game end 3-0 to Mexico and as so many times before is there people fighting at the end, but not over the game but over thrown beer mugs. – A think I didn’t see anything of a week before when I was seeing a NBA game in San Antonio.

When Celine, Nina, Adriana and I are standing in the line to the metro back home is it with a smile on our faces after a good experience, ass Nina is concluding: “It could be fun if we could be going to another game soon”.

Three friends one car, one game -go SPURS go-

Nina and I are sitting in the rented Seat at the airport in Monterrey. I’m turning on the car. We are slowly but safely driving out on the freeway this Thursday afternoon. We are heading to San Pedro to stay one night at the house of Alexander before we are going to the goal of this trip: The NBA game between San Antonio Spurs and Charlotte Hornets.

We are entering the hall of the building where Alexander lives, as we were part of a Mad Men seen. There are two guards at the entrance. The hall is impressive. One of the guards are following us up to the apartment of Alexander on seventh floor, because as he says, with a glance in his eyes: “Alexander is a good person, so I want to be sure that he wants to see you”.

When we are entering the apartment this evening is the view from the panorama view from his living room amazing with all the light over Monterrey. After meeting for dinner with Angelina who we were studying with doing the three weeks Spanish school, are we all ready to go to bed and get some good sleep before the trip is going to San Antonio early the next morning.

They see me rolling 

The music is on, the road is clear. The direction is northeast. The time has come. We are heading off to San Antonio. It is a cloudy morning at 6.15 a.m. but perfect for driving. There is some traffic out of Monterrey but nothing in comparison with the traffic Nina and I are used to from Mexico City. The road is flat while we are passing by the beautiful scenery of the mountains on our side.  Our first stop this morning is the border city Nuevo Laredo nearly 250 km north of Monterrey. The voice of 2pac is coming out of the speakers when we are hitting the border between Mexico and USA. I’m excited to cross the border because since I got my confirmations-later from ITAM did I knew that I wanted to crus this border by car.

Nuevo Laredo is the biggest border that is closes to Monterrey. There is four Puentes (bridges) from which the border can be crossed. It is only a river that is separating USA and Mexico.

We are crossing el Puento 1 because we have researched that the line here should be the shortest one. The downside about border crossing by land is like usually that you never know how long time it will take…

The bridge is not difficult to see and the American migrations office is not hard to find because they do not allow us to enter the states without going through the office. Harder is it to find the Mexican emigration office because there aren’t nearly any signs and the office is before the bridge.

We are hitting the line on the bridge 9.40am and only 30 minutes later after showing our ESTA and giving fingerprints can we jump in your rented car and continue our journey to San Antonio. We are all surprised about how easy and fast it was since we have head people can be stuck at the border for hours.

Going downtown

After crossing the border isn’t it hard to tell that we now are in the states. You see it immediately; the roads are bigger and the landscape is flat. The huge American and Texan flag is blowing in the wind at the side of the road, and of cause the bigger cars.

The road from Nuevo Laredo to San Antonio is straight and easy to drive on, so a little less than four hours after crossing the border, are we entering San Antonio. A bit before we are entering downtown, can we see the tower of the Americas that was build in 1966. Our hotel is not far from the famous River Walk, so after checking in and leaving our stuff are we heading down to walk on the River Walk, which is a quiet area with lots of restaurants located next to the small river. The light is low and the atmosphere is American, when we are ordering tree steaks at the Riverside, because as we discussed, we need to have a steak while we are in Texas. 

Shopaholic

The voice of 2pac and Elton John is coming out the speakers while we are driving out from the Hotel’s parking lot. We are heading downtown to continue our drive to the big shopping outlet San Marcus, while 2pac is singing:

“I refuse to be a role model

I set goals, take control, drink out my own bottles

I make mistakes, but learn from everyone

And when it’s said and done

I bet this Brother be a better one”

Alexander is ready to make good deals. He has made a long list with all the things he wants to buy. A list that is twice as long as Nina’s and mine combined. When we are arriving to the San Marcus outlet after driving for 45 minutes isn’t it difficult to see that this is a huge one. We only have to park the car and then go from one store to another.

#GoSpursGo

The goal with this trip is not the outlet but the NBA game Saturday night between Charlotte Hornets and San Antonio Spurs at AT & T Center. Spurs that has been my favorite basketball team since NBA for the first time was showed live on Danish TV in the beginning of the 2000s.

The People we have meet doing our shopping and told that we are going to the match have all been jealous and had wished it were them, so we are all very excited for the game and the experience when we are getting through the security check and walking up the stairs to our sites. We are just taking our sites at the moment the American national song is starting. We have been a bit late because of a car accident on the freeway. But it does not matter, because when the song is starting and we can see the huge American flag spread out in the center of the court, hold by American soldiers, do we know that this is going to be a good night.

Tonight is the game night and after the tipoff everybody are ready and when Ginóboli is getting on the court, after small 5 minutes play in first quarter, the trio is completed, consisting of Tony Parker, Emanuel Ginóboli and Tim Duncan. Even though we are sitting not far from the roof the view is okay and the atmosphere is good. Many fans are wearing Spurs shirts and hats. I can see many families who are here with kids to have a great family night together.

Doing the breaks and timeouts the cheerleaders is showing what they can in their military inspired outfit. The night is not only reserved for the game but also to honor the military veterans which is happening four to five times in the breaks doing the game. Especially when a veteran is going on the court to sing in honor of the veterans who is getting a standing applause when he is leaving in his wheelchair.

The noise from the people is on its climax in the middle of the 3. quarter. Spurs has just made four 3 points in a row and is putting themselves in the lead of the game. A game where the two teams have been close to each other until now and when David West with Number 30 is dunking the sounds from the audience is unstoppable. Nina, Alexander and I are all looking at each other with big smiles on our faces and I’m thinking that I really wouldn’t have been without this experience especially not, when I’m looking up at the roof where the five champions titles which Spurs have won is hanging. Four of them have the trio won, in 2003, 2005, 2007 and latest in 2014. Only Tim Duncan has the Horner to have won all the titles when he together with David Robinson won the first NBA champion for Spurs back in 1999.

Forever young

We got an upgrade of the rented car, which is good, when we are packing all our stuff in the trunk. It is Sunday and we are still high from the experience the night before at the NBA game when we are heading South. We are on our way back to Mexico and Monterrey. But before we are getting out of Texas we do need to have a good steak. So we are making a stop at a Longhorn Steakhouse. Where we are feeling the Texan style, when we are sitting in one of the stalls and getting our 11 oz. steak and of course refill of our drinks.

When we are getting back in the car to hit the border,hopefully before it gets dark, is Nina who is sitting at the back seat and who has been our DJ the most of the trip putting on Jay-Z’s version of “Young Forever” with Mr. Hudson. Alexander has had a big smile on his face eversince we crossed the border to the states. He says that he feels like being back home, cause everything is just so much easier here in the states than in Mexico. We all agree that we easily could have spent more time in Texas, but we need to get back to Mexico.

The line to cross the border back to Mexico is not too long but we still need to spend some time on finding the Mexican emigration office here in the dark because we haven’t stressed on our way here. When we finally finds the office doesn’t it take us more than 5 minutes to get our stamps and our FFM with a permission of 180 days.

Everybody has told us that we shouldn’t cross the border when it is dark because of danger. So when we are heading off to Monterrey is it important for us to find the road 85D and not 85. The reason is that the 85D is a tax-road and is in better shape. We find it easily and all the time are we driving with another car in front of us, so we aren’t by our self here in the dark with the exception of all the trucks we are passing by.

After 1100 km drive and many experiences in our rental are we entering Monterrey. The clock has just passed 23.00. We are all tired but in a good mood when we are looking at each other and confirming that we have had a perfect road-trip, game and weekend.

“Drink some wine,

Reminisce talk some shit forever young is in your mind

Leave a mark that can’t erase neither space nor time

So when the director yells cut,

I’ll be fine,

I’m forever young…”

The Pyramids – Teotihuacán

I can see them just in front of me. It is a bit cloudy, so It is not to warm to walk around 1 kilometer which there is from the Bus stop to the Pyramid of Sun and The Pyramid of Moon, which Teotihuacán is famous for.

The two pyramids is the biggest in Mexico and is rising as to sculptures the closer I’m getting to them. I’m today here to show them to Mads. After 2 hours in transport, are we standing in front of the steeps to the Pyramids of the Moon. We are easily taking one step at the time. From the top do we have a great view over the Sun pyramid and the sight, which is having a surface area of 83 square kilometers. The Toltec has established the sight from around 100 BC to about 250 AD. Today can’t the archaeologists say when the city ended but their guess is between 7th and 8th centuries AD. At this time was it the biggest city in the pre-Columbian Americas with a population estimated at 125,000 or even more. The Site became a part of UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

The way from the top of the Pyramid of the Moon to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun is not that long. The Pyramid of the Sun is an impressive pyramid with its gigantic size that was completed by 100 AD. After climbing the steeps for around 5 minutes I’m I at the top. The view is impressive especially to think about the size at the city. How day have lived and how they have had the capability con make this huge construction work, thoughts that will never stop at this sight.

    

The Visit, Guadalajara

“Why not continue from where we left in Texas?” Am I thinking to myself when Mads is giving me 3 difference options for dinner. I have no doubt about choosing the option with the steak house, La Artesenal, where they are serving a 500-gram entrecote for only 160 pesos.

After we have giving our order, can we hear the sound of the beaf be laid on the grill while we are sitting at the tares in this small restaurant. We are having two locals’ beers, and when I’m seeing the beef do I know that the taste only can be good. My filling is right, when the knife is cutting easily through the meat this thursday evening.

The first Bridge

Before I went out of my door in Mexico City did Mads advised me to take some trainings close with me cause as he said, “we might need to walk a bit”.

This Friday morning when I’m walking down and looking over the landscape of Barranca de Huentián, which is located in the northeastern part of Guadalajara. When I’m looking over the valley can I see a river 700 height meter below us. It is the river “El Rio Grande Santiago”. Mads and I are slowly starting our climbing down to the river. The road is good but steep. The sun is making sure that we will get some color doing our trip. The few people who we are meeting on our way are on their way back. They are breathing loud and heavy. Even though the road not is to steep can we still see that the way back is going to be hard, the further down we are coming.

The way down into the Valley is famous for the possibility to see a railroad. When we are turning on a corner, can we see the wire and the tracks. The wire needs to be strong because the tracks is making a road which is even steeper than the way we are walking. With the silence around us and seeing the tracks cutting through the landscape is impressive.

  

The sound from the river is coming closer when Mads and I are getting closer to the bottom of the valley. There is still no people so it fills like having everything for us self which is a privilege we can’t complain about. We are following the riverside for about 1,5 km before we can see a bridge in the horizon coming closer. The Bridge is the “Puente de Arcediano” we can see. When we are coming closer can we see a policeman standing at the bridge. He is explaining us that the original “Puente de Arcadino” was build in 1894 to connect the two sides of the river “El Rio Grande Santiago”. At this time was it the first bridge in Mexico and the second in Latin America. The bridge we are standing on is a copy of the original one that was destroyed in 2005 and rebuild in 2013.

With the mountains on both our sites are we starting the 700 hight meters claiming back up  to the nivel where we started. We are taking a different road back up, which should be faster but where the steps should be higher and harder. When we return to the top, do we understand why the people we meet at the beginning had a heavy breathing, the closer they were coming to the top.

I see you falling

Guadalajara is the second biggest city in Mexico, established in 1531. Guadalajara is especially famous for the historical centrum with the famous Cathedral and the Building Hospice Cabañas, which is a part of UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997. It is especially famous for the paintings by the artist José Clemente Orozco.

This sunday afternoon when I’m taking a walk through the city is some traditional dancers performing at the square in front of the Cathedral. Around them is there a circle of people, who is looking at their performens. At this time can I really see and fill that this is a different city en comparison to Mexico City. The city seams to be more traditional and smaller but on the other hand is there a lot of motorbikes on the streets which all are making a lot of noose so you can’t miss seeing them, while they are passing by you.

The dancers on the square are in traditional closes and seams to being enjoying their time. The traditional is what I also was witnessing the day before when Mads was showing me the area Tlaquepaque, which is known for its main street Calle Independencia where there is a lot of shops with art and design or alternative decor. 

5 people are sitting in 10 meters height in front of the church. They are ready with a rope around their hips to let them fall out and rotate around the stick while the only thing that’s keeps them alive is the rope. They have made the rope tight around the post before they are letting them fall and flying around it in the air as if they were sitting in a “carousel”, as one of them you see in a Tivoli. All are warring traditional closes and is flying in the air, as this is the most normal thing to do for them.